Halebidu and Belur – A Visit to Majestic sculptures


About Halebidu and Belur

Halebidu and Belur located in the Hassan district of Karnataka are often regarded as twin towns. They are approximately 16 km apart. Both were home to the Hoysala dynasty, which ruled the region for nearly three centuries. Belur was the capital city of Hoysalas until it was relocated to Halebidu. The intricate sculptures at both Halebidu and Belur are magnificent, and they share a star-shaped structure. The twin towns are well-known for their Hindu and Jain temples. They provide a glimpse of Hoysala’s art and history. This period in South Indian history was significant for the development of art, architecture, religion, and literature.

Places to visit at Halebidu and Belur

Halebidu

Halebidu literally translates as “old capital city” or “ruined city”. It is also termed Dwarasamudra. On the way, we can see a lake that surrounds the area. Rashtrakuta King Dhruva Maharaja built the lake. This lake was built to address the villager’s concerns about a lack of water throughout the year. As a result, the lake’s primary purpose was to provide drinking water and irrigation. When complete, this lake appears to be a never-ending ocean, hence the name Dwarasamudra, which means ‘Gate of the Ocean’.

Jain Temple

Jain Temple at Halebidu
Idols of Parshvanatha and Sarasvati
Idols of Parshvanatha and Sarasvati
Polished lathe-turned pillars
Polished lathe-turned pillars

We arrived in Halebidu at 9.15 am and went straight to the Jain temple. This temple is typically less crowded than the main temple. The Jain complex contains temples dedicated to Parshvanatha, Shanthinatha, Adinatha, and Goddess Sarasvati. The Parshvanatha sanctum houses an 18-foot-tall statue of the Tirthankara. This maha-mantapa has highly polished lathe-turned pillars and Yakshas sculptures against the wall. There is a also sculpture of Adinatha in the sanctum of the Adinatha Basadi. A 20 feet tall Manasthamba stands in front of the temple, and the complex also includes an ancient well. This temple is one of the fine examples of Dravidian architecture. The Indian Archaeological Survey has included this Jain complex in Indian history and is responsible for its preservation.

Kedareshwara temple

Kedareshwara temple outer carvings
Kedareshwara
Kedareshwara
Pillars and inner carvings

We then continued on to the Kedareshwara temple. It is about 0.5 km ahead of the Jain temple. Hoysala King Veera Ballala II and his Queen Ketaladevi built this temple. The main deity of the temple is Shiva. This temple of the Hoysala era adorns beautiful sculptures. This is another temple of Hoysala architecture and a star-shaped structure. The Archaeological Survey of India has designated it as a national monument.

Hoysaleswara temple

Front View of Hoysaleswara Temple, Halebidu
Front View
Side View of Hoysaleswara Temple, Halebidu
Side View
Nandi idols
Nandi idols

At last, we visited Hoysaleswara Temple. This main temple is located on the banks of Dwarasamudra Lake. It is a famous star-shaped Hoysala temple structure made of potstone. The walls and roofs of the temple adorn the intricate carvings and sculptures. The main deity of this temple is Lord Shiva. It has two Shiva shrines on the same platform. The two large Nandi mandapams are open halls with Nandi facing each Shiva linga inside. They are standing right next to each other. One of the Nandi is said to be larger than the other. They are unique due to their smoothness and asymmetrical structure.

Intricate Carvings at Hoysaleswara Temple, Halebidu
Intricate Carvings
Lord Ganesh idol
Lord Ganesh idol

There are also idols of Lord Ganesh, Shiva, and the Jain Tirthankara on the premises. It also has well-kept lawns where we can walk or relax. A nearby archaeological museum showcases some of the sculptures. The majority of these sculptures, however, are in ruins. Overall, this temple is a lovely spot for architectural admiration. The temple is open from 7 am to 6.30 pm and there is no entry fee.

Belur

Belur was also termed as Velapur or Velur in old inscriptions and medieval era texts. Since the 12th century, Belur has been a Vaishnava Hindu pilgrimage center. Hoysalas also referred to it as earth’s Vaikuntha, or Vishnu’s abode on Earth.

Chennakeshava temple

Belur Chennakeshava temple's main entrance
Temple’s main entrance
Kappe Chennigaraya temple at Belur

Chennakeshava temple is one of the most beautiful Hoysala temples in Belur. It is to honor Lord Vishnu. In Kannada, ‘Chenna’ means beauty, and Keshava refers to the Vishnu avatar (Krishna). The temple was constructed to commemorate the victory of Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana over the Cholas. The sanctum of this Hoysala temple is remarkable for its star-shaped design and is built of soapstone. It is located on the Yagachi River’s banks.

The complex also has Shri Ramanajucharya, Shri Yoga Narasimha Swamy, Shri Dasharathi Modaliyandan, Shri Vedanta Deshikaru, Shri Benne Krishna, Shri Tirukkuchchinambi, Shri Tiruppani Alwar, Shri Paravasu devaru, Shri Pe Alwar, Shri Jiyar, Shri Kalinga Mardhana, Shri Lakshmi Narasimha, and Shri Mukhyaprana temples. We could only visit Lakshmi, Bhudevi, and Vishnu because other temples were closed. Kappe Chennigaraya and Viranarayana temples are also in the same complex. The Kappe Chennigaraya temple is the smallest one in the complex.

Belur main temple and pillar
Main temple and pillar
Belur Shilabhalikas
Intricate carvings on rooftop

This temple incorporates art and scriptures from Hindu epics such as the Ramayana, Mahabharat, and Upanishads. On the roof, there are also stunning sensual sculptures of ‘Shilabhalikas’ (dancers). Further, at the temple’s entrance, there is a massive pillar through which we can pass a thin piece of paper or cloth. The sculptures and architecture here are noteworthy. Thus, it becomes an excellent location for admiring architectural and sculptural marvels. The Archaeological Survey of India also looks after it, and it is being considered for inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Yagachi Dam

Yagachi Dam Crest Gate
Yagachi Dam Crest Gate

We then went to Yagachi Dam, approximately 3 km from Belur on the way to Chikkamagalur. This dam was built across the Yagachi River in 2001. It provides irrigation and drinking water to nearby cities. Visitors are not allowed to walk on the dam, but we can see it from the outside. A small park is located adjacent to the dam. It is a peaceful place to spend time looking at the landscapes. Water Adventure Sports operates in the dam’s backwaters for recreation. Water sports such as boating, banana rides, Jet-Skiing, and bumper rides are available. We spent some time in the park before heading to Chikkamagalur. This dam has no entrance fee.

How to Reach Halebidu and Belur

Route (From Bangalore)

Halebidu is 211 km from Bangalore, while Belur is 220 km away.

By Road

Car/Bike

  • The shortest route from Bangalore to Halebidu and Belur is via NH75 via Kunigal-Bellur Cross-Channarayapattana-Hassan-Halebidu-Belur. It will take about 4 hours.
  • Another route from Bangalore to Halebidu and Belur is via NH48 and NH69 via Tumkur-Sira-Javagal-Halebidu-Belur. It will take about 5 hours.

Bus

  • There are numerous public and private buses that run from Bangalore to Halebidu and Belur. It will take approximately 7 hours to arrive.
  • If you arrive in Hassan, you can take any of the buses that run every 15-20 minutes to Halebidu and Belur.

By Rail

  • Hassan is the nearest railway station. It has access to major cities.
  • Taxis, autos, and buses run from Hassan to Halebidu and Belur.

By Air

  • The closest international airports are in Bangalore and Mangalore. 
  • It is approximately a four-hour drive from both Bangalore and Mangalore. 
  • The nearest domestic airport is Mysore Airport. Halebidu is about a three-hour drive away from Mysore.

Travel Tips for Halebidu and Belur

  • To get around the city, you can take an auto or a taxi. Buses frequently run to all of the nearby major destinations.
  • You can hire a guide to learn about the temple’s historical significance and intricate carvings.
  • The months of October to March are ideal for visiting both Belur and Halebidu.
  • There are numerous vegetarian hotels that serve South Indian cuisine. If you are in Belur in the afternoon, you can also have lunch at the Belur Math, which is right next to the temple.
  • Take sunglasses, hats, sunscreen lotion, and water bottles with you.
  • There are restrooms and drinking water taps at Hoysaleswara temple.
  • Vehicle parking is available for a small fee in both Belur and Halebidu.
  • Check out our post on Lepakshi for another architectural delight for a day trip from Bangalore.

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